Juan Galán documents life on Trani’s breakwater — a social crossroads where locals of all ages gather daily to swim, fish, talk, and connect by the sea.
I never honestly thought that a breakwater could hold so many rich stories. For as long as I remember, I have always seen the beach as a summer holiday destination, especially as someone born in the centre of Spain where the sea was always only reached a few days a year. Trani has something unique and unconventional for whoever decides to visit it. Its iconic cathedral is reflected in the waters of the Adriatic Sea. Famous for being a tourist destination and the centre of many local traditions or religious events, it connects to the city’s breakwater called “Il Braccio di Trani” (The Arm of Trani).
Voyage into the Arm of Trani involves visiting a man-made L-shaped structure, bounded by a green lighthouse guiding ships to the harbour. Here lies a true social ecosystem. One that has given generations a bittersweet look at the Tranese, often spending most of their free time here — especially in the warmer months. It seems as if the cathedral is the guardian of the arm, which watches over and contemplates everything that happens in this magical place from the top of its tower.
You’re guaranteed to feel the optimism of the Mediterranean cultures when you visit this breakwater. It is a playground for children and adults, where they coexist from the early hours of the morning until the break of dawn on some occasions — carrying out very different activities.
The youngest children are educated in the appreciation of the sea as a vital heritage, while they learn to swim and connect with one of the most abundant elements of this planet. Adolescents experience the changes of such a complicated and challenging stage of life, often bordering on the legal age for certain things. Those who visit the arm with their partner find an intimate altar and let themselves be carried away by the moment, where feelings emanate. Those who love simple activities will find a Zen garden among the rocks. A breathtaking haven that enhances the enjoyment of reading a book, listening to music, contemplating the horizon, or simply sunbathing. For the older generation, the breakwater is a place to enjoy retirement – after a lifetime of hard work – the Arm is the agora where they discuss political issues and current news. A gym for many is this place, as early in the day you will find many inhabitants swimming to keep fit and increase their life expectancy. Finally, for those who like fishing, this is a place frequented by those who want to catch something and eat fresh fish on the same day. Fish is this region’s most prized delicacy.
At sunset, it’s time to pack up and leave the Arm until the next day. However, some always stay on the Arm overnight or visit by moonlight. The Arm of Trani, like New York City, never sleeps..
